Scotland in August 2019

Fiona and Graeme had spent the previous weekend in the Cairngorms. 

  

Sadly Graeme had to return to work in London so I joined Fiona for her second successive weekend in the Scottish hills.

It was good to be back on Scottish Hills.  Initially I spent a couple of days collecting Marilyns and Donalds helped by Graham Nash.  Then I joined Fiona and we climbed Ben Vorlich and Stuc a'Chroin, 2 Munros above Lochearnhead.  These are straightforward and enjoyable hills apart from the very boggy path back to Loch Earn from Stuc a'Chroin.

The next day reverted to rain.  We had a challenging 3 hours on Schiehallion in the morning.  Challenging as the rocky ridge was quite slippery due to the conditions.  

Our afternoon was spent bagging tops on lower hills to avoid the mist and before doing so there was time for an excellent bowl of Cullen Skink soup at the Fortingall Hotel after which we tackled Drummond Hill, a Marilyn above Kenmore on Loch Tay.

The approach to Drummond Hill was on easy forest trails.  The kick came at the end as the final part was really tough, crashing through pathless forest in wet, boggy conditions and negotiating some steep slopes while clambering over fallen trees. Oddly all this was very satisfying especially as after a real struggle, we found both tops.

Our final day was in brilliant sunshine picking off a couple of Marilyns above Crieff and Perth and rounding off a five day trip in mixed weather with 16 hills climbed including 11 new ones for me.

This was a trip to dream about. Nearly 4 weeks in the Scottish Hills, mostly in the far north of the country.  All my targets were met.  The weather was mainly very good. I had excellent company for parts of the trip.  I saw amazing wildlife.  On the whole I was in remote places by UK standards, and I loved it.

I write this nearly a week since after returning to London and I am surprised by how tired I am.  The trip obviously took more out of me than I realised.  There were some big days.  On most days the underfoot conditions were rough, and I kept going day after day.  All these factors have combined leaving me physically drained but very satisfied.

And what next?

Well I have a few ideas.  Watch this space....

Thank you everyone who has supported me or followed my progress.

The picture shows me approaching the summit of Ben Stack.

And for my final picture I choose this with Graeme as we survey the Beinn a'Ghlo ridges.

Some statistics

The main objective of the trip was to climb at least 30 Marilyns and thereby take my total of Marilyns above 600 at which point you can apply to enter the Hall of Fame. A Marilyn is a hill with a drop of at least 500 feet on all sides.  I climbed 37 on this trip.

In total I climbed 76 hills during the 26 days I was away. Of these only Ben Hope had been climbed before.  Included in the 76 were 5 Munros, 5 Corbetts and 6 Grahams. 52 of the hills were pathless and remote.

The wildlife in Northern Scotland is amazing. I saw so many things including several golden eagles, a sea eagle, an otter mother and cub feeding, mountain hares, hen harriers, Ptarmigan, an osprey fishing, dottrell, great northern diver, snow buntings, cuckoos, dippers, ravens, geese, seals and of course hundreds of deer.  I even saw 3 zebra but they were inside the zoo as I biked past on my way from the overnight sleeper to home.

Including the journey home, the final figures were 394k walked, 206k biked, and 19,585m of height climbed.  This is well over twice the height of Everest. Most days I saw nobody else on the hills unlike the queues on Everest and even on Snowdon.

And so many people to thank including Fiona, Graeme, Mike, Graham and of course my wife Philippa for her encouragement and support.  Without them and a few others, this trip would not have been possible.

Tuesday May 28th 2019

The final day of the trip and the final hills, one of which was a Marilyn.  Over the next few days I will reflect on the whole trip and post a couple of blogs with my thoughts on the whole experience.

My conclusion to the adventure was a couple of easy hills near to Dingwall, as this was sort of on the way back to Inverness to catch the Caledonian Sleeper Train south.

Hills have a habit of providing the unexpected.  I was using the mountain bike and had nearly reached the first summit when the bike chain snapped and I didn't have the required repair kit. First things first!  I walked to the top of the two summits.

It was about 5 miles back to Dornoch and most of it was downhill which I freewheeled.  Exhilarating!

The second picture shows Ben Wyvis from the final top of the trip.

Distance walked in day 16k. Total distance walked on trip 392k

Distance biked today 9k. Total distance biked on trip 202k

Height climbed today 370m. Total height climbed on trip 19,585m

Marilyns climbed today 1.  Total Marilyns climbed 607.

Monday 27th 2019

I had to put some effort in today as this was the day when back in London Philippa completed her first (and probably last) 10k in a very respectable time.

The Kyle of Lochalsh railway line is often featured in lists of great railway journeys of the World. The rain of yesterday was gone and the tops were clear. The gorse and rhododendrons are in bloom providing a scene to dazzle even the most hardened traveller.

My objective was about 5 miles from Strathcarron Station and for a change, most of the way was on decent tracks. Creag Dubh Mhor maybe small for the region but it is a great hill from where to view the giants which are all around this part of Wester Ross. I enjoyed scrambling up and down the summit of the main hill and a couple of near neighbours and taking in the scenary.

Marilyns climbed 1. Total Marilyns 606

Distance walked today 20k. Total distance walked on trip 376k

Height climbed 800m today. Total height climbed on trip 19,215m

Soakings today - none!

Sunday May 26th 2019. Part 2.

Today was a day for low hills. I caught a train west and walked over a low top to the next station and caught a train back.  The low top was pathless. Moving forward was difficult due to thick undergrowth and underfoot bog. At times scrambling on rocks replaced the bogs. Returning from the summit was no easier. But I did it and most important of all, I really enjoyed the challenge.

The first picture shows the view from the top. The village is Plockton. The second picture looks back from Plockton at the hill. Both show the ongoing rain.

Total Marilyns climbed 605. None climbed today

Distance walked today 11k. Total walked on trip 356k

Height climbed today 390m. Total height climbed on trip 18415m

Distance biked today 10k. Total distance biked on trip 193k

Soakings 2

I am determined not to let the awful weather win so I was away at 4am, soon after dawn. I biked through the forest to the small hill pictured below.  Over the tall gate and up the hill, scattering the deer who had been enjoying a peaceful breakfast.  I was back in my room by 6am feeling that it was one nil to me in the fight against the weather.  Although I have to admit to being very damp when I got back.

Saturday 25th May 2019

Another Marilyn climbed today, after a short hill day on Friday due to the need to ask switch accommodation from Helmsdale to Garve.  Another Marilyn despite the persistent rain and the first midges of the year.

Little Wyvis is a maligned hill, suffering from being next door to the mightly whaleback of a hill called Ben Wyvis. Today it was an ideal target as the clouds which shrouded big brother, only skimmed the top of Little Wyvis.

Marilyns climbed 1
Total Marilyns 605
Distance walked  13k. Total distance walked on trip 345k
Distance biked 8k. Total distance biked on trip 183k
Height climbed 740m. Total height climbed on trip 18,025m

Thursday 23rd May 2019

It was a day of wild weather with high northerly winds, rain and even sleet on the summit.

I used the bike to get to the bottom of the hill. Conditions were calm but this changed as I climbed. The higher I went the rougher were the underfoot conditions.  It was almost impossible to stand up on the tops.  And I loved almost every minute. The sheer challenge of winning a day out when everything says you should not be there.

Distance walked 23k. Total distance walked on trip 319k

Height climbed 760m. Total height climbed on trip 16,850m

Distance biked 15k. Total distance biked on trip 174k

Marilyns climbed 2

Total Marilyns 604

Wednesday May 22nd 2019

Damp and grey is the best way to describe today.  We still managed to fit in a couple of hills including a Marilyn. The day was not wasted but the big mountain challenges were left for another day.

Mick pictured at the top of Braigh na h-Eagalise looking towards a cloud covered Morven.

Distance walked 11k 

Total walked on trip 307k

Height climbed  296m

Total height climbed on trip 16,190m

Marilyns climbed 1

Total Marilyns 602

Morvern is the highest mountain in the county of Caithness.  Mike had driven up from Dunblane to help me with Morvern as the approach is so far off the main road to make it almost impossible without a vehicle.


Although Morvern is not very high, it punches above it's weight and the climb involves crossing some tough country and a very steep climb. The conical shape means it has been on my list to do list for a very long time. Today we climbed it.

Distance walked 16k

Total distance walked on trip 296k

Height climbed 580m

Total height climbed on trip 16,190m

Total Marilyns climbed 601

Monday May 20th 2019

Today I climbed my 600th Marilyn. This entitles me to apply for entry into the Marilyn Hall of Fame at the intermediate level. The next two stages above me are reaching 1000 Marilyns climbed, or completing the whole lot. There are 1557 including a few almost impossible seas stacks on St Kilda.

My 600th Marilyn was Beinn Lunndaidh which is only 446 meters high. It is a bit of a lump and the approach involves crossing some wet, boggy and pathless country from Ben Braggie, a smaller hill on which stands a huge statute of the Duke of Sutherland. I even managed to complete the climb between showers and so avoiding a soaking.

Now for new targets and adventures......

Distance walked 13k total distance walked on trip 280k

Total distance biked on trip 159k

Total height climbed 560m 

Total height climbed on trip 15610m

Sunday May 19th 2019

A quiet day during which I moved accommodation from Garvault to Helmsdale. This involved a long mainly downhill bike ride to Kinbrace Station on Scotrail's North Highland line. It is a request stop which adds to the enjoyment. I was the only passenger boarding or alighting at Kinbrace.

Saturday May18th 2019

The fine spell was over and replaced by light rain and low cloud.  I decided to take the opportunity to have a quieter day.

I cycled to Kildonan, climbed a fairly low Marilyn where I needed my compass to locate the summit. I returned to the Excellent Garvault hotel by catching the train to Kinbrace and biking 8 miles across the lonely moorland road.

Marilyns climbed 1. Total Marilyns 599
Distance walked 4k. Total distance walked on trip 267.5k
Height climbed 490m. Total height climbed on trip 15,040m
Distance biked 42k. Total distance biked on trip 143k

Friday May 17th 2019

The fine weather continues I am delighted to say.  I need a rest after 14 days on the trot of hill walking but the rest will have to wait as the forecast is for change in the next few days.

Another day of mountain biking using estate tracks to get me into the heart of remote hills. Altogether I climbed 5 hills, only one of them reached Marilyn status. The huge herds of deer watched me nervously and retreated if they felt I got too close. Overhead I watched a golden eagle slowly rise on the thermals without ever resorting to a wing beat. As usual the vista was endless.

Total distance walked 12k
Total height climbed 700m
Total distance biked 31k

Thursday May 16th 2019

Adrian from The Garvault Hotel offered to drive me to the eastern side of the two Ben Giram peaks, so that I could walk across them and back to Garvault which is to the west.

The first 2k was one good estate track but once past a very solitary cottage, the route was pathless.  Both peaks are Marilyns. Both are remote.  In between them sit two small high level lochs. All around them is moorland and hills empty of people but not of wildlife.

Marilyns climbed 2. Total Marilyns 597

Distance walked 16k

Height climbed 815m

Totals for trip

Distance walked 251.5k

Height climbed 13850m

Distance biked 70k

Wednesday May 15th 2019

Ben Armine is one of the most remote mountains in Scotland being many miles from a public road in any direction. It lies deep in the heart of Sutherland surrounded by open moors and vast lochs. It has long appealed to me especially as it is accessible using a mountain bike on a well maintained estate road.

In superb weather I biked about 8 miles along the track before locking the bike and following an excellent stalkers path to the high point on the col between the 2 Ben Armine summits, both of which are Marilyns. The final ascent was pathless but relatively easy.

In the middle of the emptiness I came across this sign.

Marilyns climbed 2.  Total Marilyns 595
Distance walked 16k
Height climbed 1040m
Distance biked 35k

Total distance walked on trip 235.5k
Total height climbed 13035m
Total distance biked 70k

Tuesday May 14th 2019

Another glorious day with wall to wall sunshine. It was only marred by Fiona having to leave in the afternoon to return to London.

In the morning we climbed another Ben Loyal outlier, Cnoc nan Cuilean, which is also a Marilyn.  In the above picture, Fiona is sitting at the summit looking north east.

Fiona then drove me and the bike to Garvault House, which claims to be the most remote hotel on the British mainland.  We dropped off my gear and I then continued with her to Helmsdale, leaving her to drive to Inverness and the overnight sleeper, while I caught the train back to Kinbrace and biked onto Garvault. While away the whole Glen had been engulfed by smoke from a nearby moorland fire, a further sign of the exceptionally dry conditions.

Distance walked 8k
Height climbed 560m
Distance biked 12k
Marilyns climbed 1

Totals for the trip
Distance walked 219.5k
Height climbed 11995m
Distance biked 35k
Total Marilyns 593

Monday May 13th 2019.
Another day and another Marilyn, Ben Stumanadh which is one of the smaller peaks which surrounds  Ben Loyal. This leaves me with 8 to go to reach the 600 target.

I am currently having a few quieter days in preparation for the big challenges due in a day or two when I tackle the remote hills of the Flow Country.  We (Fiona and I) made good use of this quieter period by spending the afternoon visiting the summits of  6 easy hills along the north coast.

Sadly Fiona returns to London on the sleeper train on Tuesday evening.

I have enjoyed my few days in the hills of the Far North.   Good weather helps.  Pictured is Ben Loyal seen across The Kyle of Tongue.

Marilyns climbed 1

Total Marilyns 592

Height climbed 995m

Distance walked  22k

Totals for trip

Height climbed 11435m

Distance walked 211.5k

Distance biked 23k

As I was having a rest day from climbing Marilyns, I climbed a Munro instead.  Fiona was with me.  The weather was perfect.  The top was snow capped and the picture below shows Fiona at the summit of Ben Hope with Ben Loyal in the distance.

Fine weather is a fickle thing so rather than waste a good day in a coffee shop eating cake, we drove to  Ben Hutig in the afternoon and did bag a Marilyn after all.

Statistics for the day:-
Marilyns climbed. 1
Distance walked 19k
Height climbed 1440m

Overall statisics for the ttrip (May 3rd to today)

Marilyns climbed 21
Distance walked 189.50k
Height climbed 10440m
Distance biked 23k
Total Marilyns 591

Sometimes things don't go well!  This was the case on Saturday morning As Fiona and I struggled across rough ground trying to locate the summit of An Lean Charn which is a 521m high Marilyn near the North Coast of Scotland.  Eventually we made it but neither of us enjoyed the struggle.

The afternoon brought an improvement as, revived by coffee and cake from an excellent coffee shop near the tiny village of Tongue, we ticked off one more Marilyn in brilliant sunshine and also climbed a few other nearby tops.  Thankfully the weather continues to be outstanding.

Marilyns climbed 2, total Marilyns 590, height climbed 965m, distance walked 20k

Overall statistics for trip
Marilyns climbed 20, height climbed 9000m, distance walked 170.5k, distance biked 23k

This was my 8th consecutive day on the hills, out of the planned total of 26 days. Some quieter days are built in to the plan but with the current good weather forecast to continue, I need to be on the hills.

Our targets for day 8 included Beinn Spionnaidh, which is the most northerly mountain in Mainland Britain, plus the wonderfully named Cranstackie. Both hills have rough summits, with unstable loose rocks to be negotiated. Both are set in breathtaking scenary overlooking a wild snow capped landscape, beyond which lies the seas to the north and west of Britain.

Fiona was with me to give vital support with her usual bubbling enthusiasm and her can do attitude.  To complete a perfect day a golden eagle glided overhead, riding on thermals, and slipping away into the distance without any sign of effort or wing beat.

Marilyns climbed 3

Total Marilyns 588

Distance walked 20k

Height climbed 1390m

Overall statistics for the trip after 8 days

Marilyns climbed 18

Distance walked 150.5k

Distance biked 23k

Height climbed 8035m

Another quiet day as I prepare for 5 or 6 big days on the trot.  I still managed to tick off Meall Dola, 323m or 1060 feet.  However the highlight of the day was spending about half an hour watching 2 otters fishing in an estuary.

Marilyns climbed 1
Total Marilyns climbed 585
Distance walked 22k
Height climbed 295m

I managed to sneak up one more Marilyn today, despite the day being very wet and cold.  We were out early and mountain biked into the foot of our target hill just outside Durness.  We climbed in  a snowstorm.  It is supposed to be May!  It was an easy hill despite the appalling weather.

GN returned to Edinburgh at Lunch time.  I was treating this a sort of rest day so spent the afternoon biking to Kinlochbervie and using the time to re supply at Mr Mackay's General purpose stores which is pictured and is Well worth a visit.

Marilyns done today - 1

Total Marilyns climbed 584

Height climbed 710m

Distance walked 6k

Distance  biked 23k

The picture below is of the view from Mr Mackay's front door.

The Cape Wrath Peninsula in the top NW corner of Britain, is a wild place with no roads and only a few deer tracks. Underfoot it is often boggy and tussocky and very hard to walk across.

Tuesday's walk was a gruelling 10 hours long. We (Graham Nash and I) saw no people and no buildings. Our only reminders of the outside world were 2 small ships out to sea and warning notices on a MOD fence. The sun shone most of the day, although at times the wind was bitterly cold.  The hills were inspirational.  In the distance, Fionavon was snow capped and serene.

Marilyns climbed 4

Total Marilyns 583

Height climbed 980 m

Distance walked 27k

May 6th.  I am now in Sutherland thanks to a lift from Graham Nash.  The hills are snow capped. Sutherland is empty of people and full of wildlife and as an example, today we saw a golden eagle.  Two more Marilyns climbed including Ben Stack which is pictured below.

Marilyns climbed 2
Total of Marilyns 579
Height climbed 1150m
Distance walked 13k

Another superb day despite being bitterly cold when on summit ridges.  Two more Marilyns climbed thanks to lots of support from Fiona and Graeme.

The picture shows an old man (that is- me) approaching the top of Beinn a'Chuallaich 892 meters.

Tomorrow I move from Perthshire to the Far North for the next part of the adventure.

Marilyns climbed 2

Total Marilyns 577

Height climbed 1220 meters

Distance walked 19.5 k

Day 2 and the target was Marilyns above the Drumochter Pass.  Overnight there had been snow to impove the look of the hills.  Two Marilyns climbed -Meall na Leitreach and Sgairneach Mhor - across a grouse moor where there were several vicious looking traps presumabley to catch an unwary stoat. There were many grouse and a few mountain hares, but no raptors.  Despite this it was another great day accompanied by Fiona and Graeme.

Marilyns climbed 2

Total Marilyns 575

Height climbed 1020 m

Distance walked 20k

Today was the first of my latest Scottish adventure and it was spent on the three Munros of Beinn a'Ghlo. All three are also Marilyns so my total is now 573.  A superb hill round undertaken on a fine day with occasional snow showers in the company of Fiona and Graeme.

Amount of ascent 1270m

Distance walked 23k

Marilyns climbed 3

I am back in London after my adventures in the Scottish/English border country, having bagged 8 more Marilyns, leaving 30 to do to reach the Hall of Fame entry level of 600.

A lot of credit for this goes to Graham Nash who arrived in Langholm on my third day, with mountain bikes so we could more easily access the tops via forest paths and roads.

Few of the tops have paths so at times the underfoot conditions were  tough.

The overall rewards were great with a real sense of satisfaction.  In total I had 3 days on my own and one with Graham during which time I saw no-one else on empty  hills only 40 miles from the crowded Lake District!  All hills were in Scotland with the exception of Peel Fell (pictured below) which is on the border and which was approached from the English side.

In total on this excellent trip I walked 48k, off road mountain biked a further 22k and ascended approximately 10,250 ft.  

I climbed 6 hills in the Scottish Border Country today and saw nobody. Indeed at times the hills were almost pathless as was the case on Cauldcleauch Head (pictured) 619 meters or 2031 feet.

In contrast a picture was published on Facebook today showing a long queue of hillwalkers on Snowdon waiting to access the summit!